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This 2005 edition of Blackbelt in Blackjack is a major expansion of the 1998 edition. Part I, "Earning Your White Belt," contains, in addition to a full explanation of three different card counting systems, discussions on "phony" systems as well as problem gambling. Neither of these topics are covered by most books on card counting, but I feel they are of prime importance to those who are new to advantage play, and especially to those who are considering investing serious time and money.
In Part II, "Earning Your Green Belt," I have greatly expanded the discussion on "table conditions," or how to choose a profitable game. In the past seven years, many forms of "pseudo-blackjack" have been appearing in casinos. Some of these new variations on the game are patented "scams," with names like "Spanish 21" or "SuperFun 21," where the rules seem so liberal as to be almost too good to be true; others are just sneaky forms of traditional blackjack with seemingly "minor" changes, such as blackjacks paying 6 to 5 instead of 3 to 2, or the game is a "fake" single-deck or two-deck game, where the decks are actually being removed from a larger six- or eight-deck shoe. I have also augmented the information on bet-sizing, answering another question that concerns all card counters: How much should I bet in any given game?
There's a lot more information on camouflaging your play, avoiding detection by casino surveillance, and many of the legal issues that concern card counters. If you are considering playing casino blackjack for high stakes, either as a career or simply as an adventure, you must always keep in mind that this can be a risky business. Card counting is legal, and the biggest problem most counters ever have is being barred from the tables if their skill is discovered; but for those who play at the highest levels, the hazards are greater. The casinos sell gambling to the public as "fun," emphasizing the possibility of winning money from the house. In fact, the casinos expect every player to lose money at their games in the long run. All that glitz and glamour is simply there to lure in the fish, and if they think you're going to walk out with their money, your action will not be welcome.
Just because a casino may offer a game that can be beaten with skillful play does not mean that skillful players are welcome. In fact, using those cameras in the ceiling bubbles, they monitor every big bettor at their tables in order to detect those who might be playing the game with unusual ability. When they find such a player at a high-stakes game, the reaction is swift and not always pleasant; in many cases, the casinos have violated laws themselves in dealing with professional gamblers. Because these types of incidents have become more frequent and more severe in the past few years, I think every book on card counting should provide players with information on how to handle these types of problems. What if you are kicked out of a casino? What if casino security wants to escort you to a "back room?" What if they refuse to cash out your chips? You should know your rights and how to handle some of the common situations that advantage players encounter.
In Part III, "Earning Your Black Belt," I've added more material on playing on teams or with a partner, taking advantage of casino promotions, hustling comps, playing in foreign countries, playing on the Internet, traveling with large amounts of cash, and protecting yourself from dealers who cheat—and, yeah, some of them do.
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This is how a casino blackjack table appears from the top:
The large circles represent the seats, which can accommodate one to seven players. The small rectangles represent the marked areas on the table where players place their bets. There is usually a limit sign posted on the table, which states the minimum and maximum bets allowed. Table minimums may run from $1 to $100, and maximums may run from $25 to $10,000. $5 minimum tables are most common, and some states, such as Colorado, have $5 maximums. Some casinos, but not all, also post the rule variations for their games on the table.
SOFT HAND:
Any hand in which an ace can be counted as 11, without busting, is a soft hand.
Example: You hold an ace and a 7, totaling a soft 18. Another example: You hold an ace, a 9, and an 8, which is a hard 18. In this case, if you counted the ace as 11, your total would be 28, a bust. It's important that you be able to read your hand's total value, hard or soft, quickly and effortlessly. When you begin to learn winning strategies, you'll find that hard and soft hands require different decisions. (Remember, any hand with no aces is always considered a hard hand.)
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